Cast tailpiece upgrade?

[milli857]

I think my sheet metal tailpiece is causing an unpleasant rattling sound and I want to replace it with a cast one. A drop-in replacement for the 3-screw type would be best. Do yall have any recommendations for good cast tailpieces under say $100?

[dhergert]

My original 2002 Gibson F-9 tailpiece had become tweaked under string tension so I replaced it with a James tailpiece.

The James tailpiece is cast, extremely solid, made of bronze and extremely functional and easy to use, but surprisingly not much heavier than the original sheet metal tailpiece.

On my F-9 the James tailpiece used exactly the same screw holes and the same endpin hole; I even re-used the original Gibson screws.

Biggest surprise, I was able to use the same strings, no change required. That's as close to a drop-in tailpiece replacement as I can think of.

Only problem is that it costs almost twice what you want to pay; in my personal opinion they are very worth the money, I'd get one again in an instant.

[Bob Buckingham]

The James is the best. The Allen is second best IMHO.

[MikeEdgerton]

There's no guarantee even if you pay more than $100.00 that it will be a drop-in replacement. Take a look at this thread. I changed a stamped tailpiece on a Korean mandola to a James. It's not impossible but it's not drop-in.

[milli857]

I'll probably go for an Allen, I like the look of the polished non-plated brass. Now the question is which one? I think the TR-3 looks the nicest but I'd like to hear opinions from people that have owned one.

[Charles E.]

I have had an AR-2 on one of my mandolins for a very long time and like it a lot. I have to use painters tape to keep the loop ends on the posts during string changes and the string holes are a bit fussy but not too bad. I think your choice of the TR-3 is a solid one, it appeals to me the most. I have a James tailpiece on my other mandolin and it is the bomb.

[Bill McCall]

Take the cover off and see if it still rattles. Troubleshoot from there, as the base plate may need to be bent slightly if it's the culprit. Not many moving parts to check what's rattling.

[milli857]

It mostly rattles on the D string. If I take the cover off, it will stop rattling, then I put it back on, and it won’t rattle for a while, but it always comes back. The A string also rattles a little even without the cover on, maybe that one is a nut issue.

[dhergert]

Try a postage-stamp-sized, fitted piece of sheet leather either under the strings, between them and the tailpiece, or over the strings, between them and the tailpiece cover, as you slide it back on... Maybe try both locations. Trim and adjust the leather as desired. This tends to prevent strings from rattling in the area of the sheet metal tailpieces.

The James tailpieces, with the included hinged cover, have rubber grommets under the strings that do the same thing. I even add a small piece of sheet leather, wedged securely between the prongs on the cover, for added rattle prevention.

[milli857]

Try a postage-stamp-sized, fitted piece of sheet leather either under the strings, between them and the tailpiece, or over the strings, between them and the tailpiece cover, as you slide it back on... Maybe try both locations. Trim and adjust the leather as desired. This tends to prevent strings from rattling in the area of the sheet metal tailpieces.

I already have a bit of felt on the bottom piece, maybe I'll try gluing one onto the cover.

By the way, is the upper bit of the tailpiece cover meant to touch the strings? It does on mine, and I could bend it up if that is what might be causing the rattle.

[dhergert]

... By the way, is the upper bit of the tailpiece cover meant to touch the strings? It does on mine, and I could bend it up if that is what might be causing the rattle.

I'll have to defer to those with the sheet metal tailpieces for that, I've had the James on mine for long enough that I've forgotten that detail... But I did have leather on mine, and despite its tweaked nature due to string tension, it didn't rattle.

FWIW, I never got a sense that the leather sheet tailpiece inserts changed tone or volume, although speaking in terms of absolute physics, it's remotely possible. It's very unlikely that the human ear can pick up any difference. I also liberally use the leather sheet inserts on banjo tailpieces (for decades) and never could discern any tone or volume differences with them. The sheet leather inserts are an easy fix for a nagging rattle problem.

[Mandobart]

I've got Allen bronze tailpieces on 4 instruments - F5 mandolin, A4 10 string mandola, F4 octave mandolin and F4 10 string mandocello. These all are original equipment used by the builder. I like the look and love that they'll take loop or ball end strings.

I have no idea if the holes line up with the stamped type TP's though.

[Frankdolin]

I already have a bit of felt on the bottom piece, maybe I'll try gluing one onto the cover.

By the way, is the upper bit of the tailpiece cover meant to touch the strings? It does on mine, and I could bend it up if that is what might be causing the rattle.

It should not touch the strings. Yes, on bending it up. Just be carefull and keep everything square. I've had to bend every "clamshell" I ever had. Good Luck!

[milli857]

It should not touch the strings. Yes, on bending it up. Just be carefull and keep everything square. I've had to bend every "clamshell" I ever had. Good Luck!

Oh, perfect. I'll use a vise so it stays straight. I'll try that before I change it, might save me a few bucks.

[Berto Boy]

Allen's and James" are both improvements but well over $100 with shipping. One consideration with the Allen is threading the new string through the hole and then arching it up to in between the correct two strings as it crosses the bridge. As others have noted, the strings have a tendency to pop off their stud as your winding up the tension with the tuner. The hinged lid on the James eliminates that issue.

If you change strings a lot, the James is the bees knees. Pricey but they're machined here in the USA.