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Thread: Picking the right mandolin

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    Default Picking the right mandolin

    Hey y’all. I’m a long time guitarist and finally got around to trying mandolin and joining the forum. I bought a cheap A style just to make sure I’d like it. I feel like I will want to upgrade relatively quickly but I am now puzzling over all the various sizes and styles. A mandola might be a little more comfortable size but then there’s having to re learn cords and scales. An octave mando is the same tuning but, never having tried one, would the stretches you have to do playing scales be difficult for shorter fingers? Also, I play a variety of genres, not just bluegrass so, is it best to stick with the A style? Then there’s the choice of oval sound hole or f holes. Obviously this is just a hobby for me so i most likely won’t be taking it on stage. I know the choice is ultimately personal and it would be ideal to find a shop that has different Mandolins to try but any advice could be helpful.

  2. #2
    small instrument, big fun Dan in NH's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Some people say that they can hear a difference between an A body and an F body. Good for them, I can't. And I've never met anyone whose opinion I trusted who said they could, either.

    But F body mandolins will run you $200+ more just for all the extra shaping, forming, & fitting that goes into them. And they just look so COOL. I 100% bought my Eastman 514 F body mandolin because it looked way cooler than the same manufacturer's 504 A body mandolin. Total "Shut up and take my money."

    Oval hole mandolins tend to be warmer. F hole mandolins tend to be brighter, and project their sound better. That's why they're the choice for bluegrass, where the mandolin player has to stand between a fiddle player and a banjo player and struggle to be heard.

    I play my Eastman oval hole 514 because 90% of the time my mates & I are playing Bob Dylan, Jimmy Buffet, and Creedence Clearwater Revival. But I want to get an F hole mandolin, and it's likely to be sooner rather than later.

    I have been SORELY tempted to buy an octave mandolin. But I decided that since I already play guitar badly and mandolin badly, then I don't need to add another instrument for me to play badly. Right now I'm focusing all my time & attention into betting better at mandolin so I can justify the purchase of a really NICE F hole F body in a couple of years.
    Eastman MD-514 (F body, Sitka & maple, oval hole)
    Klos Carbon Fiber (on order)

    And still saving my nickels & dimes & bottle caps & breakfast cereal box tops for my lifetime mandolin.

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  4. #3

    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Thanks for that useful information! As a matter of fact I’m considering Eastman to save a little money. I’ll check out your model.

  5. #4

    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Similar background. F is more comfy for me to play than A so it is worth the extra for me. Eastman are a nice intermediate upgrade before committing to some real dollars for the levels higher.

    I have a mandola which I love playing as much as mando, and I play whatever I play on mando on it, it sounds different but I really enjoy it.

    Octave I stayed away from because it is pretty similar to guitar so I can’t justify the money for it.

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    Registered User Billy Packard's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Back in the early 90s when I decided I wanted to spend some serious money and get a cool Mandolin I decided on a Gilchrist A3 which at the time cost $2000. At that point in my life I did not like the F style design. I thought it was gaudy, overworked and distracting. My Gilchrist A model is just beautiful.
    In the years, following my taste has expanded.
    My only advice would be get something you can afford, play it and make a joyful sound.

    Billy
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    I like the looks of an F model mandolin, I even had one once. For me an A is more comfortable to play and I like the look of it too. All my mandolins are A's. Now an asymmetrical two point, well that's a different story.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

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    Registered User grassrootphilosopher's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveBray View Post
    Hey y’all. I’m a long time guitarist and finally got around to trying mandolin and joining the forum. I bought a cheap A style just to make sure I’d like it. I feel like I will want to upgrade relatively quickly but I am now puzzling over all the various sizes and styles. A mandola might be a little more comfortable size but then there’s having to re learn cords and scales. An octave mando is the same tuning but, never having tried one, would the stretches you have to do playing scales be difficult for shorter fingers? Also, I play a variety of genres, not just bluegrass so, is it best to stick with the A style? Then there’s the choice of oval sound hole or f holes. Obviously this is just a hobby for me so i most likely won’t be taking it on stage. I know the choice is ultimately personal and it would be ideal to find a shop that has different Mandolins to try but any advice could be helpful.
    There are too many points to adress and in the end to little information to consider for an advice.

    Read this article on mandolincafe and take it as a starting point: https://www.mandolincafe.com/news/pu...s_001443.shtml

    Don´t buy cheap. Buy the best that you can afford. Let sound and playability of the instrument dictate the choice and not the optics. Don´t necessarily follow the heard.
    Olaf

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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    If you are looking at Eastman mandolins look into Kentucky mandolins also. Indeed it is all about tonal preference and what you may reasonably afford. I prefer that tone of Kentucky instruments. Another choice, a bit more expensive, that would be Northfield.
    I love hanging out with mandolin nerds . . . . . Thanks peeps ...

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  12. #9

    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Quote Originally Posted by grassrootphilosopher View Post
    Let sound and playability of the instrument dictate the choice and not the optics. Don´t necessarily follow the heard .
    SpellCheck++... now offering puns.
    "I play BG so that's what I can talk intelligently about." A line I loved and pirated from Mandoplumb

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    Moderator JEStanek's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Welcome to the Mandolin Cafe.

    If you're not intending to use it on stage, consider flat top instead of arch topped instruments. They are far more affordable (Big Muddy instruments are fabulous as are many vintage Martin Cant Topped mandolins). Consider the pricing differentials between archtop guitars and flat top guitars of similar manufacture (domestic and import) as driving similar price spreads on mandolins. Mandolins will be harder to find in numbers and variety in most locations. Set up is key. Our Cafe Sponsors sell mandolins in a range of price points and styles and typically provide an excellent set up or can (if buying used). Our classifieds section is likely the best way to find used instruments in the world and sees far more traffic than the forum.

    Frankly you can play ALL mandolin music on ANY mandolin (bowl, flat, arched (A or F). They will sound different and some shapes/instrument styles will be better suited for a style than others. The Bluegrass folks seem to be most concerned with F holes on a F style instrument (b/c that's what Bill Monroe played). A style is just fine the F holes will project the sound better in a group setting and give you a much better punchy chop than an oval hole. These are guidelines not laws.

    The mandolin is a happy fun instrument to play even when you're playing sad songs. If at all possible, try and get your hands on a mandolin or two to see how they feel in hand. Or buy where you could return if its not a good fit (you'll still be out shipping both ways most often).

    Jamie
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveBray View Post
    An octave mando is the same tuning but, never having tried one, would the stretches you have to do playing scales be difficult for shorter fingers? Also, I play a variety of genres, not just bluegrass ...
    go octave mandolin. some people find it too big, but if you can play guitar, you can play an octave. mandocellos are roughly the same size, just harder to find/pricier. mandola is octave mandolin with capo on 5th fret. small mandolin you will get plenty of advice from others. (I like vintage gibsons). difficulty of playing is roughly same as 12-string guitar (double strings, tuned in unison or in octaves, your choice of sound, but all the same for playing).

    like guitars, octaves and mandocellos are universal instruments, people play celtic, bach, bluegrass, blues, rock-and-roll, jazz, just about anything. i personally, play an octave mandolin for English country dances (covers the spectrum from Irish to Scottish to Baroque to classical to Medieval to newly written dance tunes).

  16. #12
    man about town Markus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveBray View Post
    An octave mando is the same tuning but, never having tried one, would the stretches you have to do playing scales be difficult for shorter fingers?
    There's a lot of good advice above about body shape and the like - but having recently gotten a short scale octave, I would note that the reality of 5ths tuning and a longer scale means that melodic/lead playing is much trickier on octave and that if I try to stay near open position for me it's a LOT harder than with a mandolin where reaching to 5/6th fret is easy.

    If you're singing with it, playing a lot of rhythm, and don't have too many guitars/dobros/etc - an octave is a wonderful thing. But if I'm getting together with another guitarist or two, the higher range of the mandolin yields a nice group result. YMMV.
    Collings MT2
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Difference between f hole and oval hole.

    F hole mandolin - audience members say "what a great sounding mandolin, did you hear that?"

    Oval hole mandolin - audience member say "what a wonderful tune, wasn't that beautiful?"

    A talent for trivializin' the momentous and complicatin' the obvious.

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  18. #14
    small instrument, big fun Dan in NH's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Fyp.


    Quote Originally Posted by jeffd View Post
    difference between f hole and oval hole.

    F hole mandolin - audience members say "what a great sounding mandolin, did you hear that?"

    oval hole mandolin - audience member say "what a cute, tiny, little guitar!"

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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    So...

    lots of opinions here.

    General consensus - you get more bang for the buck with an A style versus F style. No sound difference. Some will say there is but there isn't ...
    F style is an expensive strap hanger. I've got both. From the same makers. No sound difference.
    F holes vs. oval holes - depends on what style of music you're playing. Oval hole - mellow, richer sound. F -holes - will cut thru the mix.

    Octave mandolins - will get lost sonically in the mix with guitars. But the hippies like them.

    Hope that helps.

    Kirk

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    Registered User Steve 2E's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    I'd buy used and do some experimenting and not worry about picking the right instrument from the start. If you buy used you won't take a big financial hit if it's not what you like and decide to resell. I don't know what your budget is, but I think these are pretty good deals for $500 or so.
    https://www.bigmuddymandolin.com/sto...red-mandolin-2
    https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Ea...BK-Mandolin.gc

  22. #17
    Registered User Charlie Bernstein's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Welcome, Steve!

    Lots of opinions above. I know, it's as bewildering as you let it get.

    I've been playing guitar for over fifty years and mando for less than ten. Here's what this boy thinks:

    - Beauty is in the eye and ear of the beholder. I love the clean, streamlined look of A's. the look of an F is too fussy and blingy for my taste. And I find A's to be highly comfortable to play.

    - I also had a flattop for a while, a rosewood Big Muddy. It was loud and it sounded great. (Wish I still had it!)

    - You'll get more and better sound out of a solid-wood instrument.

    - Maple is brighter and louder than any other body wood. Walnut, birch, rosewood, and mahogany are all warmer and more interesting-sounding. Maple's sound is too chilly for my taste, but good players get gorgeous sounds out of it.

    - F-holes are louder. Round and oval holes are warmer.

    - Unlike guitars, whose voices vary dramatically, for the first few years of playing mando, they all sound pretty much the same. Chances are, you'll own a few before you can really differentiate and know what suits you.

    - A Tone-Gard attached to the back of a mando pushes the mando away from your stomach so the wood can vibrate more freely, making the instrument sound louder and richer. A great investment.

    - Tuning is bound to be your greatest challenge. I found myself frustrated, so here's what I did: got a bottom-of-the-line set of Rubners for about $100. It made life a lot easier.

    - Experiment with picks. Learn what people here use. Huge variety. Mando players spend more monrey on picks — a lot more — than guitar players do — for good reason. It's astonishing how much pick choice affects a mandolin's sound. You might even find you have different picks assigned to different songs or styles.

    BOTTOM LINE:

    You're just setting out on the road. Don't get too hung up on making exactly the right choice. Do your research, take the plunge, and just get something that appeals to you, knowing that in not too many years you'll probably want to go another step up. And then another step. Pro-level mandos start around three grand. I'm on my fourth mando now, a birch oval A (not pro level!), and I love it. But I'm not closed to bringing another one into the house.

    After all, they don't take up much space!
    Gibson A-Junior snakehead (Keep on pluckin'!)

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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    > octave mandolin is hard to play

    harder than uke, easier than bagpipes, granted. but there is a pattern, people come from small mandolin, try to play an octave and give up disappointed. I come from guitar originally, I like the wide prairies real estate fingerboard, I like the tuning in 5th. on guitar all the notes were always in the wrong places for me.

    > octaves are lost in the guitars

    maybe yours does (no offense). I use a bruce weber sage-1 pancake, it has a bark, it cuts through and is louder than guitars. (only dadgad 12-string is louder).

    one would think GBOMs should always be lost in the guitars, they are just GGDDAAEE guitars, but I played GBOMs that have a bark, that handle more like a mandolin than a guitar (did not try them at the bluegrass jam).

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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    I’m similar in my musical journey. I have played guitar and banjo (various styless) off and on for 20+ years and bass for 10 years. We always had a cheap Fender A mandolin my wife bought when we were in college 20 years ago to play with my banjo. She didn’t prohibit it, but made it clear that she would prefer I didn’t get into mandolin, if she was going to play it, because I tend to obsess. I noodled with it off and on, but wasn’t into any theory at that time. After I took up bass, I got into light theory, because it was so easy to understand. Anyway, some 10 years ago, give or take, she really took to fiddle, and that has been her instrument since, only very occasionally playing mandolin. A couple of months ago, I was playing bass on a gig, and an old back injury from college rugby was really exacerbated by playing on my feet (in cowboy boots, which was a stupid call) for 3-4 hours without much rest, and I could barely walk the next day. I thought to myself, “there is no way you could play banjo for 3-4 hours on your feet,” and I remembered Bill Evans saying at a banjo workshop, something along the lines of - the worst thing you can do, if you want to be a great banjo player, is to pick up the mandolin or something like it and realize how logical and intuitive it is. Well, Bill was right; when I picked up the mandolin and actually looked at it and spent some time with it, I discovered it is so logical and requires no 13 lb bass pulling against my low back to boot - I’ve been hooked. I pretty quickly bought a Kentucky KM-1000, one of their “Master Model” mandolins. The F style with the scroll is a lot cooler looking to my eye, and I agree with the post above about it being a lot more comfortable to play. My wife still prefers the A shape, so different strokes for different folks, I suppose. In that time, I bought a Collings MF, compared, then sold the KM-1000 and bought a Sam Bush model Gibson, and I love the radiuses fretboard and slightly wider nut on both. I want to want a fine Gibson MM, but really, I don’t know that I would like the flat board and 1 1/16” nut. I’m sure that is from 20+ years of guitar, banjo, and a decade on bass with significantly wider spacing. For me, the flat KM-1000, which is a very nice mandolin for the money, was so much less comfortable to play than the MF or the SB (though so much more comfortable than the Fender A we’ll never sell). I don’t live anywhere near a good shop to go and try a lot of mandolins, and I don’t have enough time to travel just for that purpose, so I pretty well have to buy, try, sell, trade, etc. I’m completely convinced that I have 2 mandolins that are a lot better than my skill, but I can appreciate pretty significant tone differences between them. I don’t know how you can find that without just trying - I did get to demo 2 brand new wide nut, radiuses Gibson F9s, and one was markedly better sounding to me; so that’s confirmation that tone is all in the trying in person. If that’s not an option, I can say that FOR ME, a radiused board and at least a 1 1/8” nut is a lot more “playable” and comfortable to play for my body and style; and the F style is both more aesthetically pleasing and more comfortable to play. I don’t know if that’s helpful, but that has been my experience. I really look forward to the day when I can get to a great shop with a great selection and sit down and play and play and find my “the one,” if such a thing exists.

    Charlie above has some great info, though our opinions differ. I can feel and hear tonal differences pretty quickly, and I can say that for me, a cheap instrument just wasn’t cutting it. I played several levels of Loars and Eastmans - and while I’m not good enough for them to be beneath me, by any means, I knew they weren’t what I was looking for. That said, at their price points, Eastman, Kentucky, and Loar all have some very fine offerings, and I know a lot of players far better than me playing them. Your budget will determine what price level you need. I think that most people who have been playing music for a good number of years can appreciate quality pretty quickly; but honestly, nothing necessitates an expensive instrument. Some of us have a hard time loving our instruments if we know there is something better at a point we can reach; and I know others, some pro musicians with Top 100 Hits at times, who can play and love anything they touch - I suspect they are the the ones better off monetarily by a large margin. Fortunately, the Asian makers are turning out pretty great product at their price points. That said, I don’t imagine you’ll find a lot of people who will say a $400 or even $1,500 PacRim rivals the nicer American made instruments; but they are definitely adequate (and more). Then you have the hybrids, like Northfield, which I understand are Asian made, but US company spec’ed and set up; and they get a lot of love, and the ones I have heard in person are pretty great instruments. BanjoBenClark and his sister, Penny, play them, and they are killer on them! I’ll admit that I have a lot of loyalty to US makers; and I happen to be from a state with some incredible mandolin builders in Collings, Ellis, and Pava (and I’m sure there are others). I wanted a Collings since I was in college at UT Austin, so I bought a Collings when I first got serious about mandolin. I have since learned that there is a lot of love for Pavas, and though I am happy with my Collings, I now have that itch to scratch. Ellis are out of my price range at this point.

    I did buy a ToneGuard and definitely am in that camp. The tone and volume difference is pretty noticeable for me on that issue. As far as octave mandolins, I have no experience, but have to imagine that’s more in the weird, less used, group of instruments for gigs. I think of them like the bouzouki; fun for a handful of things, but not a dedicated instrument - I do want one, and probably will buy one at some point with a bonus or whatever, but for me, I want to get the mandolin dialed first. As to picks, I’m with Charlie: I started jacking around with Heavy Fenders I used on bass on the rare occasion I played with a pick, and they are adequate, but the BlueChip CT-55 and ToneSlab 1.3 one round corner sound 1000X better. I wound up rounding one corner of the BC CT-55, and play more with it and the round corner on the ToneSlab. I’m not loaded, but $40 for a pick is a cheap test well worth trying to me. That rounded vs. pointed pick is a whole other can of worms.

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    Registered User Charlie Bernstein's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Here's a link: Tone-Gard
    Gibson A-Junior snakehead (Keep on pluckin'!)

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    Mando-Accumulator Jim Garber's Avatar
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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    SteveBray: If I were you I would stick with the mandolin and concentrate on moving to a better playing and sounding one in your preferred price range. All the others are more specialized instruments and, yes’m, many of us here have them or have played and sold them but I would wait until you have the experience on the mandolin before exploring the other of that family. You don’t say how long you have been playing or even what genres you are interested in (except not bluegrass).

    In any case, keep your eyes and ears open for examples of people playing those other instruments. Yes, they have their place but I would get some steady footing on mandolin and then you can always acquire of those down the line.
    Jim

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    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Thanks! Great advice near the end there

  28. #23

    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Really good advice that I think I will follow. I play just about everything on acoustic and electric guitars but have always loved mandolin and finally got one a few months ago. I think I went too cheap now but it was hanging in a store that was going out of business and selling off inventory. I must say that Celtic on the mandolin has got my attention though.

  29. #24

    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Quote Originally Posted by TX2AK View Post
    I’m similar in my musical journey. I have played guitar and banjo (various styless) off and on for 20+ years and bass for 10 years. We always had a cheap Fender A mandolin my wife bought when we were in college 20 years ago to play with my banjo. She didn’t prohibit it, but made it clear that she would prefer I didn’t get into mandolin, if she was going to play it, because I tend to obsess. I noodled with it off and on, but wasn’t into any theory at that time. After I took up bass, I got into light theory, because it was so easy to understand. Anyway, some 10 years ago, give or take, she really took to fiddle, and that has been her instrument since, only very occasionally playing mandolin. A couple of months ago, I was playing bass on a gig, and an old back injury from college rugby was really exacerbated by playing on my feet (in cowboy boots, which was a stupid call) for 3-4 hours without much rest, and I could barely walk the next day. I thought to myself, “there is no way you could play banjo for 3-4 hours on your feet,” and I remembered Bill Evans saying at a banjo workshop, something along the lines of - the worst thing you can do, if you want to be a great banjo player, is to pick up the mandolin or something like it and realize how logical and intuitive it is. Well, Bill was right; when I picked up the mandolin and actually looked at it and spent some time with it, I discovered it is so logical and requires no 13 lb bass pulling against my low back to boot - I’ve been hooked. I pretty quickly bought a Kentucky KM-1000, one of their “Master Model” mandolins. The F style with the scroll is a lot cooler looking to my eye, and I agree with the post above about it being a lot more comfortable to play. My wife still prefers the A shape, so different strokes for different folks, I suppose. In that time, I bought a Collings MF, compared, then sold the KM-1000 and bought a Sam Bush model Gibson, and I love the radiuses fretboard and slightly wider nut on both. I want to want a fine Gibson MM, but really, I don’t know that I would like the flat board and 1 1/16” nut. I’m sure that is from 20+ years of guitar, banjo, and a decade on bass with significantly wider spacing. For me, the flat KM-1000, which is a very nice mandolin for the money, was so much less comfortable to play than the MF or the SB (though so much more comfortable than the Fender A we’ll never sell). I don’t live anywhere near a good shop to go and try a lot of mandolins, and I don’t have enough time to travel just for that purpose, so I pretty well have to buy, try, sell, trade, etc. I’m completely convinced that I have 2 mandolins that are a lot better than my skill, but I can appreciate pretty significant tone differences between them. I don’t know how you can find that without just trying - I did get to demo 2 brand new wide nut, radiuses Gibson F9s, and one was markedly better sounding to me; so that’s confirmation that tone is all in the trying in person. If that’s not an option, I can say that FOR ME, a radiused board and at least a 1 1/8” nut is a lot more “playable” and comfortable to play for my body and style; and the F style is both more aesthetically pleasing and more comfortable to play. I don’t know if that’s helpful, but that has been my experience. I really look forward to the day when I can get to a great shop with a great selection and sit down and play and play and find my “the one,” if such a thing exists.

    Charlie above has some great info, though our opinions differ. I can feel and hear tonal differences pretty quickly, and I can say that for me, a cheap instrument just wasn’t cutting it. I played several levels of Loars and Eastmans - and while I’m not good enough for them to be beneath me, by any means, I knew they weren’t what I was looking for. That said, at their price points, Eastman, Kentucky, and Loar all have some very fine offerings, and I know a lot of players far better than me playing them. Your budget will determine what price level you need. I think that most people who have been playing music for a good number of years can appreciate quality pretty quickly; but honestly, nothing necessitates an expensive instrument. Some of us have a hard time loving our instruments if we know there is something better at a point we can reach; and I know others, some pro musicians with Top 100 Hits at times, who can play and love anything they touch - I suspect they are the the ones better off monetarily by a large margin. Fortunately, the Asian makers are turning out pretty great product at their price points. That said, I don’t imagine you’ll find a lot of people who will say a $400 or even $1,500 PacRim rivals the nicer American made instruments; but they are definitely adequate (and more). Then you have the hybrids, like Northfield, which I understand are Asian made, but US company spec’ed and set up; and they get a lot of love, and the ones I have heard in person are pretty great instruments. BanjoBenClark and his sister, Penny, play them, and they are killer on them! I’ll admit that I have a lot of loyalty to US makers; and I happen to be from a state with some incredible mandolin builders in Collings, Ellis, and Pava (and I’m sure there are others). I wanted a Collings since I was in college at UT Austin, so I bought a Collings when I first got serious about mandolin. I have since learned that there is a lot of love for Pavas, and though I am happy with my Collings, I now have that itch to scratch. Ellis are out of my price range at this point.

    I did buy a ToneGuard and definitely am in that camp. The tone and volume difference is pretty noticeable for me on that issue. As far as octave mandolins, I have no experience, but have to imagine that’s more in the weird, less used, group of instruments for gigs. I think of them like the bouzouki; fun for a handful of things, but not a dedicated instrument - I do want one, and probably will buy one at some point with a bonus or whatever, but for me, I want to get the mandolin dialed first. As to picks, I’m with Charlie: I started jacking around with Heavy Fenders I used on bass on the rare occasion I played with a pick, and they are adequate, but the BlueChip CT-55 and ToneSlab 1.3 one round corner sound 1000X better. I wound up rounding one corner of the BC CT-55, and play more with it and the round corner on the ToneSlab. I’m not loaded, but $40 for a pick is a cheap test well worth trying to me. That rounded vs. pointed pick is a whole other can of worms.
    That was a lot to read through but thanks. 1 1/8” nut (if I’m a guitar player) and radiused fretboard where key points for me. I also use blue chip picks. I also don’t live where there are well stocked music shops

  30. #25

    Default Re: Picking the right mandolin

    Thanks for the welcoming Charlie and this great advice. I’ll look into a tone gaurd. Does it require any involved installation? Can it be moved from one instrument to another? I kinda like A style as well

  31. The following members say thank you to SteveBray for this post:


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