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Thread: Slack tuners: replace 'em, or no big deal?

  1. #1

    Default Slack tuners: replace 'em, or no big deal?

    One of my mandolins has two tuners that have a somewhat disturbing degree of play, before the gears catch and the pitch gets pulled upward.

    I know enough to tune any mandolin or guitar down below the pitch, then up to pitch. But it's annoying to feel a total looseness when I down-tune the mandolin, before pulling the pitch up again. There's literally zero response from the tuner for a few turns, before the gear catches and the pitch goes downward.

    I'd guess there is a too-loose fit between the gear and the shaft of the tuner.

    My question: should I replace the tuners, or forget about it, as I've been doing for a few years? The mandolin holds pitch well once it's tuned up.

    Thanks.

    Also thanks for replies to my recent tailpiece question.

  2. #2
    Moderator MikeEdgerton's Avatar
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    Default Re: Slack tuners: replace 'em, or no big deal?

    You don't mention the age of the tuners but if I was you I would start out by going to the late Paul Hostetter's Tuner maintenance page at:

    http://www.lutherie.net/tuner.maintenance.html
    "It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
    --M. Stillion

    "Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
    --J. Garber

  3. #3

    Default Re: Slack tuners: replace 'em, or no big deal?

    Tuners are, I presume, 3-4 years old, like the mandolin. Mr. Hostetter seems to indicate that, since the strings do eventually take up the slack, I have no problem. Thanks for this info.

  4. #4
    Confused... or?
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    Default Re: Slack tuners: replace 'em, or no big deal?

    Quote Originally Posted by Tate Ferguson View Post
    Mr. Hostetter seems to indicate that, since the strings do eventually take up the slack, I have no problem.
    Yeah but... your initial description sounds like you still do, regardless. Since any machine oil cannot be decades old (Paul's polymerization comments), here's another part of what I wrote while you were typing:

    A further & simpler possibility: that the screws attaching each cog to its shaft (possibly intended for backlash adjustment) are simply too tight, stopping the cog+shaft from rotating freely.

    Hope that helps.
    - Ed

    "Then one day we weren't as young as before
    Our mistakes weren't quite so easy to undo
    But by all those roads, my friend, we've travelled down
    I'm a better man for just the knowin' of you."
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  5. #5
    Adrian Minarovic
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    Default Re: Slack tuners: replace 'em, or no big deal?

    Quote Originally Posted by EdHanrahan View Post
    A further & simpler possibility: that the screws attaching each cog to its shaft (possibly intended for backlash adjustment) are simply too tight, stopping the cog+shaft from rotating freely.
    I have yet to see tuners that are manufactured like that. Virtually all tuners have a step in the post that prevents tightening the cog against the plate and allows free rotation and even if they did by mistake manufacture the step too small by a fraction of mm it would wear out a depression in th plate after few months of use anyway or it would be completely unusable from day one. The more expensive modern tuners have various "bearing" systems in that area but still the screws have to be tightened fully to hold parts together (and they are often covered by a pearl eye or such), there is no adjustment intended by the screws. The problem is virtually every time in wrong spacing or alignment f the holes in headstock which force the post out of square and create undue friction both between the post and wood/bushing and the skew in the post creates also friction between plate and the cog/post assembly. Loosening the screw allows the cog to float above the plate and help a bit but it is not solution of the problem and skewed position of post will allow premature wear of the cog or worm because of misalignment ogf te parts.
    Part of the problem could be friction in the nut as well.
    Adrian

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  7. #6

    Default Re: Slack tuners: replace 'em, or no big deal?

    Friction at the nut can be all of the problem. Try pencil graphite, and close inspection if you can. And everything else Adrian says.

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