I need a new bridge that maybe should be higher than normal because I cant turn the truss rod.
I need a new bridge that maybe should be higher than normal because I cant turn the truss rod.
I would get a set up, before you decide. It might be you need a higher bridge, or it might be bridge placement, or one of several other things. I had what I thought was a similar problem, and it turned out I needed the neck reset.
If the neck is not straight and you feel the truss rod needs adjustment this should be done before anything else. If will not turn find out why. There is an order that things should be done in.
Dave Schneider
Curious about neck resets on mandolins. My current design has the back plate locking the bottom (heel) of the neck. It would seem near impossible to reset such a neck. Thoughts?
"Near impossible" is pretty accurate. It's even more complicated than it looks, actually, if binding is involved. That doesn't mean it is actually impossible, just that it's not a fun job and not something you want to do the first time on a rare or expensive instrument.
There are some great mandolins and mandolin-family instruments out there which are, in fact, impossible to do neck reset (at least, not without completely disassembling the sides from the plates and blocks). In those cases, a wedged fretboard can be made to re-establish correct neck geometry, which can be a perfectly acceptable solution.
Well Mike. Most of my experience is with guitars. Usually when you need a neck reset on a guitar it is because the action has gotten too low. I would think that neck resets on a mandolin would be rare. And if you did need one it would be because the neck joint had failed. In which case some would maybe saw through the back plate to separate the heel cap from the back.
Dave Schneider
Every neck reset I have done on a guitar was because the action was too high, not too low. Typo?
THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!
Very good point to the OP. 90% of my builds are guitars, having only recently gotten into mandolins. As I was putting this mandolin together it occured to me the neck joint was a forever thing. So I had better get it right from the start. My guitar neck joint style is bolt on M&T. Very easy to reset.
BTW, I think cumberland sells a bridge called the "tall boy". It is about 0.1" or so taller.
You can do some serious damage tightening the truss rod too much. Besides that is not the proper way to correct action. Take it to the luthier before you damage your mandolin further.
Jim
My Stream on Soundcloud
19th Century Tunes
Playing lately:
1924 Gibson A4 - 2018 Campanella A-5 - 2007 Brentrup A4C - 1915 Frank Merwin Ashley violin - Huss & Dalton DS - 1923 Gibson A2 black snakehead - '83 Flatiron A5-2 - 1939 Gibson L-00 - 1936 Epiphone Deluxe - 1928 Gibson L-5 - ca. 1890s Fairbanks Senator Banjo - ca. 1923 Vega Style M tenor banjo - ca. 1920 Weymann Style 25 Mandolin-Banjo - National RM-1
This is a 100 dollar Saga kit mandolin I put together that is over 10 years old which sounds pretty good. Actually better than the Eastman 515 mandolin that I never play. Not looking for a neck set.
Regardless of the value of the instrument or it’s age or origin the truss rod is not meant to adjust action. It is meant to adjust relief in the neck. Action is adjusted at the bridge given that the nut is cut correctly.
Dave Schneider
Cumberland Acoustics offers extra tall bridges. I would check out heir website. In the "saddle height" button the offer a "Tall Boy" option.
Mitch Russell
Got a new bridge. It has a gap in the middle. Do I sand the feet down right to the gap? Its a long way to go.
Not unless you want a one piece bridge foot. Just fit it to the top, Most bridges are two foot, one is an option.
THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!
should each foot be flush with the top leaving the gap open
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
Bookmarks