Mandolin project

**SEarlHatfield** · Nov-19-2023, 8:26am

I acquired this mandolin from a shop in East Tennessee. It was advertised as a Chinese unlabeled prototype. I liked the sound of it when played by someone at the shop who was much better than my beginner fingers. It has an interesting bridge that is non adjustable. I can't tell if the back is hand carved.

Someone else here thinks it could be of Korean origin.

My tentative plans are:
Switch to a quality adjustable bridge.
Possibly switch out tailpiece. (The style it has is on Stewmac for $60 but it's a bugger to restring.)
Possibly switch out the tuners for better ones.

Suggestions graciously accepted.

**Jim Garber** · Nov-19-2023, 9:55am

Just for further interest, maybe you could post a full frontal photo of both the friend and the back.

**Tavy** · Nov-19-2023, 9:56am

Looks like it needs a setup - the action at the nut is certainly too high, likewise at fret 12.

Changing tuners and tailpiece will have next-to-zero effect on the sound of the instrument, but if you feel they would help the ergonomics by all means go for it.

The bridge is an interesting one: provided it's well fitted to the top and made from some proper hard ebony (not something that's been dyed!) then it should actually be pretty good sound wise, the catch of course is that it's non-adjustable, so yes, that's one I might be inclined to replace.

**JEStanek** · Nov-19-2023, 10:39am

That tree of life inlay kinda hollers early 2000s Korean make (at least it looks like the Morgan Monroe F style with a Tree of Life inlay I had. If it plays nice enjoy it. I would say better tuners only if you can't get the ones on there working nicely. The bridge is a good change when fitted and adjusted well same for the nut slots. The tailpiece would be last on my list to change out. But that's just me. Enjoy it and the project.

Jamie

**poul hansen** · Nov-19-2023, 1:19pm

Except for fretboard inlays, the little you divulge looks like my full solid Richmond RMA-110-VS

Click image for larger version.

Name: 2023-11-19 19.12.25.jpg
Views: 29
Size: 405.3 KB
ID: 210607

**SEarlHatfield** · Nov-19-2023, 2:08pm

That was my bad Jim. I thought I did. I have to post more pics in the comments.

**SEarlHatfield** · Nov-19-2023, 2:19pm

Additional pics.

**SEarlHatfield** · Nov-19-2023, 3:24pm

Originally Posted by poul hansen

Except for fretboard inlays, the little you divulge looks like my full solid Richmond RMA-110-VS

I added more pics.

- - - Updated - - -

Originally Posted by JEStanek

That tree of life inlay kinda hollers early 2000s Korean make (at least it looks like the Morgan Monroe F style with a Tree of Life inlay I had. If it plays nice enjoy it. I would say better tuners only if you can't get the ones on there working nicely. The bridge is a good change when fitted and adjusted well same for the nut slots. The tailpiece would be last on my list to change out. But that's just me. Enjoy it and the project.

Jamie

I added more pics Jamie.

**pops1** · Nov-20-2023, 9:37am

Looks nice, I would get the setup done so it plays well and see what you have. If you like it, then start changing things. I have mandolins that change a lot with the seasons, and one that hardly changes at all. If yours doesn't change much the bridge could be left on. I would set the string height at the bridge in the middle of the winter when it is as low as it will get from drying out. That is if you live where you have winter. I do setup first, frills later. Have fun.

**SEarlHatfield** · Nov-20-2023, 10:35am

Originally Posted by pops1

Looks nice, I would get the setup done so it plays well and see what you have. If you like it, then start changing things. I have mandolins that change a lot with the seasons, and one that hardly changes at all. If yours doesn't change much the bridge could be left on. I would set the string height at the bridge in the middle of the winter when it is as low as it will get from drying out. That is if you live where you have winter. I do setup first, frills later. Have fun.

Pops I'm looking a 2.5/64ths at the nut on the G side and 4.5/64ths at 12 on the G side. I'm not quite sure whether that's fine. To my untrained fingers (on mandolin basically, I do play guitar. ) it doesn't feel hard to play.

**bennyb** · Nov-20-2023, 12:13pm

1/64" at the first fret would be considered very high and off the charts for me personally. Take a look at Frank Ford's [URL="http://frets.com/FretsPages/pagelist.html" site[/URL]. Here's the page on [URL="http://frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenSetup/NutAction/nutaction.html"] nut action/URL]. He's setting up a guitar, but it applies to mandolin as well.

benny

**pops1** · Nov-20-2023, 12:41pm

Originally Posted by SEarlHatfield

Pops I'm looking a 2.5/64ths at the nut on the G side and 4.5/64ths at 12 on the G side. I'm not quite sure whether that's fine. To my untrained fingers (on mandolin basically, I do play guitar. ) it doesn't feel hard to play.

That's high. If you fret the third fret some like to see a hairsbreath of gap at the first fret. I like less, it doesn't need it, and makes it hard to play in the first position if it is high. It will also make it play sharp if it is too high. I like 3/64" on the low G at the 12th fret, but you need a very good fret job to achieve that. 4/64 would seem high to me. I like just to see the line of 2/64" at the 12th fret on the E string. Most will like a higher action than that, But I like it to play easy and I have a lot of volume, so I don't believe it has to be high action to be loud.

**SEarlHatfield** · Nov-20-2023, 1:44pm

Originally Posted by pops1

That's high. If you fret the third fret some like to see a hairsbreath of gap at the first fret. I like less, it doesn't need it, and makes it hard to play in the first position if it is high. It will also make it play sharp if it is too high. I like 3/64" on the low G at the 12th fret, but you need a very good fret job to achieve that. 4/64 would seem high to me. I like just to see the line of 2/64" at the 12th fret on the E string. Most will like a higher action than that, But I like it to play easy and I have a lot of volume, so I don't believe it has to be high action to be loud.

Pulled out the old feeler gages and was surprised.

G. Nut .039/.030. 12th. .079
D. Nut. .022/.022. 12th. .079
A. Nut. .019/.019. 12th. .079
E. Nut. .010/.010. 12th. .079
BTW. Thanks

**JEStanek** · Nov-27-2023, 11:16am

That looks like an Ashton Bailey tailpiece which wasn't standard on PACRIM instruments in the early 2000s Certainly not my Korean made Morgan Monroe. That design is a bit different too, As for indicating country of origin, mine just had a Made In Korea sticker on the back of the headstock. The blank headstock and no stickers inside give credence to it being a prototype. If it sounds and plays good, it is good!

Jamie

**Ray(T)** · Nov-27-2023, 1:05pm

At least it looks to have a solid top - look at the edges of the soundhole in the first additional photo.

Believe it or not, there are some people who actually like that type of tailpiece! Admittedly, there are better (easier to change strings) available but there are worse (my RM-1). A blob of Blu-tac helps hold the string loop in place whilst you attend to the other end or you can use a capo. You may find that trying to find and fit a replacement is more of a pain than coping every so often when you change strings.