I screwed it up

[Dano Reible]

Just got my used Mid-Mo and was changing strings to med Elixirs. Sounds great. I could not be happier and then I heard a real quiet click and found that the bottom E string was against the top E at the bridge. Lifted and slid it over to find that the string sliced off the wood between the two string slots.

Is this just a worn out bridge problem or did I mess up some how? Now if I try to redo the groove the action will be lower and that will be a problem I know. I have to get a new bridge I am guessing so do I get the same kind and are the string slots pre cut? Or do I have to send it off or take it somewhere?

Thanks

[glauber]

Bummer... contact MidMo, i think they may send you a new bridge for free or cheap - their customer support is very good.

[sunburst]

First, let me say I'm not really familiar with Mi-Mo.
Is the bridge adjustable? If so, you can deepen the slots and raise the bridge.
If the bridge is not adjustable, do you have any action height to spare? The slots don't need to be very deep, and the amount that you take off of the bridge is twice as much as the change in action height at the 12th fret. In other words, if you deepen the bridge notches 1/64", the action only lowers 1/128" at the 12th fret.

[Dano Reible]

The bridge is not adjustable or there would not be a problem. I took a razor blade and made a new groove and it seams to be holding without an action hight problem but the wood seams very brittle and dry. I think I will be ok for now but I think I will get a hold of mid mo and get a new bridge just in case the wood should be a problem.

Thanks again

[sunburst]

I think I will be ok for now but I think I will get a hold of mid mo and get a new bridge just in case the wood should be a problem.

Good plan.
You're bridge top may be a piece of wood that is prone to splitting, or the grain direction might be such that it is prone to splitting.
An extra bridge is a good thing to have too, so keep the old one. It might get you through an emergency.

[Dano Reible]

OK;

I just got off the phone with Mike the owner and founder of Mid Mo and he is sending me a set of 4 bridges in differing hights to fit to my playing style. He wouldn't take a credit card # and said hey if you like what I send toss a few bucks in the mail.

Now that is service. I bought it used as I told him and he just wanted to make sure I was taken care of.

WOW

[Moose]

Looks like you will eventually need a replacement bridge ; you CAN replace it on-your-own IF(!) you get/put it as close as possibile where the "old one was placed on the mando if the "intonation", string height, etc. were correct. ONE(1) factor is "critical": Take note when removing the damaged bridge ; be sure the NEW bridge is accurately (!) placed ; otherwise the mando will NOT "note" true for the length of the fingerboard!## - Go slow & be carefull - you CAN do it!! - Ask here if you encounter problems - It'll be a good "learning experience" for you. Good luck. Moose.

[glauber]

OK;

I just got off the phone with Mike the owner and founder of Mid Mo and he is sending me a set of 4 bridges in differing hights to fit to my playing style. He wouldn't take a credit card # and said hey if you like what I send toss a few bucks in the mail.

Now that is service. I bought it used as I told him and he just wanted to make sure I was taken care of.

WOW

Yes, that's what i thought would happen. They're very consistently great service.

[Dan Adams]

This happened to me playing a gig: Live! #I couldn't get the E strings to sound clear, fret correctly, etc.. #I actually carved a small slot in the bridge with a pocket knife, then replaced later. #Replacement is the answer.

Two strings are now one, Dan

[otterly2k]

it's nice (and not at all surprising) to hear a great customer service story
good going, mid-mo!

[Dano Reible]

Looks like you will eventually need a replacement bridge ; you CAN replace it on-your-own IF(!) you get/put it as close as possibile where the "old one was placed on the mando if the "intonation", string height, etc. were correct. ONE(1) factor is "critical": Take note when removing the damaged bridge ; be sure the NEW bridge is accurately (!) placed ; otherwise the mando will NOT "note" true for the length of the fingerboard!## - Go slow & be carefull - you CAN do it!! - Ask here if you encounter problems - It'll be a good "learning experience" for you. Good luck. Moose. # # # #

Accualy I measured and recorded the exact bridge placement prior to replacing the strings to make sure to get it back in the same spot so that is not a problem and Mike is sending 4 hights so I can make sure to get the action hight the way I want it which is the way it was anyway so I will just match up the hight with the new and old.

This little mando sounds so great, nice and warm/round sounding. Even though I am not a player at all yet I still can hear how great it sounds and with service like Mid-Mo I think this little M-O will be around a while.

[Fretbear]

Two pieces of masking tape on either side of the properly positioned bridge is the easiest way to put the new bridge into it's proper footprint....you can stick the tape to your clothes a few times to reduce it's grab if you are afraid it will tear at your finish...

[Rick Crenshaw]

OR... use the blue painters masking tape. It has less adhesive and comes off clean. putting the tape on your pants leg or something first is a good idea, though.

[arbarnhart]

Assuming it was right to start with is a leap of faith, especially when bought at a guitar shop where they knew so little about it (which was fortunate for Dano, cause he got a great deal). I would start at double the distance to the 12th fret from the nut, check intonation and adjust as necessary.

[Dano Reible]

Thats where the harmonic and the accual note at that fret are the same right?

[arbarnhart]

Thats where the harmonic and the actual note at that fret are the same right?

Yes, though as a practical matter making sure that the fretted note is exactly an octave above the open note is of utmost importance.