'20s dobro reso mando

[smeester]

I've recently come across a 1920's era Dobro f-hole resonator mandolin. The body is in great shape, binding is all there, no cracks in the wood. The neck needs a reset, and the original bridge has been replaced with a homemade job. The plating on the resonator is starting to bubble, but otherwise everything looks solid including the "Dobro" decal on the headstock.

Would it devalue the instrument to strip and re-plate the tuner gears and the other plated pieces, including the resonator?

I live in an area where there are no luthiers. Any recommendations, and any idea of cost on a neck reset/bridge?

I would like to get this thing restored if it is worth it. Help!

[smeester]

Cat got your tongue? #Earl got your tongue?

I thought I posted a question to the mandolin repair discussion. #Nobody interested? #Is there a special handshake or password requirement here to get acknowledment? #Dumb question?

[Michael Lewis]

You get into difficulties trying to replate parts, as they always show the evidence. Not practical to strip and replate parts. So, it is best to replace the parts if you can find the parts. The neck apparently needs the neck stick reset or possibly just shimmed to get the neck angle into usable form. You mention the bridge, is it the Dobro cast amuminum spider or the National biscuit type? Probably just needs a new maple saddle.

[markishandsome]

The reso cone is plated, or are we talking about the coverplate? When I first got my old epiphone archtop guitar, I considered getting all the parts replated, but cheaped out and am now glad I did. These sorts of imperfections are the sort of character vintage instruments are all about. If you want one that looks brand new, get a brand new one, I hear they sound and play better than the originals anyhow.

[smeester]

The cover is what I'm referring to. Also the bridge guard.

[thistle3585]

You will pay quite a bit more for stripping and re-plating the cover than what a new one would cost. I had some stuff stripped once and it just came out horrible looking because they couldn't polish it as well as they wanted to or they would have gone through the thin spots. If you do want to do it, I would suggest contacting a motorcycle shop and ask them who they would recommend to do it.

[Antlurz]

If there is any pitting in the metal, the chances of it coming out looking right are about nil by the time the pits are removed. Not much metal there to begin with. Removing any more isn't likely gonna help matters.....

I agree that there is nothing wrong with something looking it's age. Get the neck reset and whatever needs done with the bridge so it's mechanically up to snuff and let it's wrinkles, whiskers and grey hair show. It's earned the right, simply by surviving....

Ron

[allenhopkins]

[1] You probably don't have a "20's era" Dobro mandolin. Dobro wasn't started until 1929, when the Dopyera brothers left the National Guitar Co. to start a rival firm. The patent for the spider bridge setup was taken out in 1929 as well. So you're probably talking 1930's, not that it makes a huge difference.
[2] Neck reset problems are common on these instruments. The neck blocks are made of a fairly soft wood, often basswood -- though my instrument repair person said mine felt "more like balsa wood."
[3] Re-plating seems more trouble than it's worth. If your concern is the mando's collectible value, any refinishing may reduce that. If you're just considering it as a player's instrument, wear on metal surfaces is pretty irrelevant, as long as the tuners work and the body's structurally sound. Prior posts indicate it's difficult to restore pitted or corroded plating to pristine condition.

Dobro mandolins are neat instruments, with a distinctive sound. But they aren't models of the luthier's art; materials are sometimes a bit dodgy -- wood not properly seasoned, plating rather thin -- and almost all that I've seen have shown wear or aging. In your shoes, I'd get it functional, and not sweat the cosmetics. That's what I've done with mine.