They're nickel plated brass so there Will be discoloration from the heat required..
Preparation for silver soldering is another place where Cleanliness Counts..
They're nickel plated brass so there Will be discoloration from the heat required..
Preparation for silver soldering is another place where Cleanliness Counts..
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You should not do anything to it till you have talked to the repair person. Wire brush or steel wool can compound the problem pushing glue or dirt into crevices and pores of the metal. Most jewelry repair people have ultrasonic cleaners or small abrasive blast tools to clean things up and may prefer to do so themselves.
I agree that silver-soldering by a very experienced jeweler who understands the stresses this thing need to bear is the only solution. If anyone uses less than hard silver solder, the piece will be permanently ruined and further restoration will be impossible.
I also think it'll require a backing piece spanning the break. This can be done subtly.
It'll also require replating, but that's not a big deal.
Harry Eibert an excellent luthier near Syracuse, NY does silver soldering. I had a National silver mandolin with a cracked tailpiece and he fixed it so it was stronger than before. Harry's Facebook Page
Jim
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1924 Gibson A4 - 2018 Campanella A-5 - 2007 Brentrup A4C - 1915 Frank Merwin Ashley violin - Huss & Dalton DS - 1923 Gibson A2 black snakehead - '83 Flatiron A5-2 - 1939 Gibson L-00 - 1936 Epiphone Deluxe - 1928 Gibson L-5 - ca. 1890s Fairbanks Senator Banjo - ca. 1923 Vega Style M tenor banjo - ca. 1920 Weymann Style 25 Mandolin-Banjo - National RM-1
Good news. Those tailpieces are a real challenge, so that's a high recommendation! Thanks, Jim.
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