Tru Oil or No?

[Jim Baker]

Sounding better all the time. Maybe no need for the Everclear.

[Paul Hostetter]

I don't see why. Tru-Oil has always been thought of as a simple, reliable finish needing no undercoat. Maple and spruce aren't particularly open-grained the way, say, walnut and mahogany are. And I've seen plenty of walnut (gunstocks) done with just Tru-Oil and it still looks great. There are other oil-based varnishes that will give equally good results, but that one's easily accessible and quite reliable.

[Jim Baker]

Tru Oil is available at walmart in a spray can. Would that work as well?

[Paul Hostetter]

Oh dear. No.

[Jim Baker]

Good I asked the question. I was tempted to buy some to try it. Thanks Paul.

[fishtownmike]

Talking about the pure grain alcohol you have to special order it through the state liquor control board special order and you have to sign liability papers when you pick it up. I work for the PLCB. It's do to the fact that there has been a few alcohol related poisonings at some frat parties. As a youth myself we used to have these jungle juice parties but we always made sure to use enough juice to dilute the grain. If i need a bottle now I just take a ride to Jersey or Delaware. It's a lot easier then going through the ordering process.

[David Newton]

Since we're talking about Tru-oil, I used to buy "Diesel" brand liquor-store alcohol, slightly cheaper than Everclear brand, but still $15 a quart.

There is a notion out there that you can drink it. Please don't. I was quietly french polishing a guitar and thought "wonder what it tastes like?" An hour later I'm still coughing and drinking milk trying to reverse the effects.

[Paul Hostetter]

Jeez, you almost won the Darwin Award today! 190 proof hooch is not for beginners!

[Mike Snyder]

Y'all come to Winfield in September. I'll make you and everclear screwdriver and you can go home with as much as you want.

[Jim Baker]

Still have not found a source for tru oil in Canada. LMI will not ship outside the U.S..

I see on the Lee Valley web site, they have a product called "French Polish". Supposed to be based on shellac and can be used for finishing as french polish but comes in a bottle.

[wsugai]

I don't see why. Tru-Oil has always been thought of as a simple, reliable finish needing no undercoat. Maple and spruce aren't particularly open-grained the way, say, walnut and mahogany are. And I've seen plenty of walnut (gunstocks) done with just Tru-Oil and it still looks great. There are other oil-based varnishes that will give equally good results, but that one's easily accessible and quite reliable.

My recollection of Tru-Oil is that it is a boiled linseed oil formulation with additives to catalyze a very thin and durable surface layer. The additives also helped in curing, which can be a problem with a boiled linseed oil base. In addition to durability, Tru-Oil can be touched up easily, which might be its single most important feature. As a measure of durabiltiy, it can withstand cartridge primer residue, which is especially corrosive.

I've read where the best application method was just rubbing Tru-Oil into well-sanded wood by hand because the warmth caused by the friction of skin against wood opened the pores of the wood just enough to allow the correct level of absorption (could be a fairy tale, but it sure sounds nice!). In my opinion, the finest Tru-Oil finishes were a very light satin, produced by a very controlled final rubbing of rottenstone. Personally, I hate that glossy finish like on my A5G -- looks real cheap compared to a correctly hand-rubbed satin finish.

[Kyle Baker]

tru oil should be available at most hunting supply stores since it is a common product for re-finishing gun stocks.

[Kshot]

Late as ever, but in my experience Tru oil is very easy, very forgiving, and each coat is very thin so it will take quite a few if you want a glossy finish. I usually seal with shellac first then apply coats of tru oil gently leveling the surface with 0000 steel wool every 4 or 5 coats. Folks usually wipe it on but I've also gotten good results spraying it diluted ~50/50 with naptha. Note that it does take longer to dry diluted.

Good luck,
Keith

[jim simpson]

I got mine in the gun department at my local Cabella's.

[PJ Doland]

I used Tru-Oil on the body of a solidbody electric I built a few years ago. The stuff is very easy and almost idiot-proof.

[P Josey]

The Shellac/Lacquer Thinner sold by Lee Valley is great for mixing shellac.

[RJinRI]

Still have not found a source for tru oil in Canada. LMI will not ship outside the U.S..

I see on the Lee Valley web site, they have a product called "French Polish". Supposed to be based on shellac and can be used for finishing as french polish but comes in a bottle.

i get mine here & pricing is better than at local retailer:

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/...ID=5&subcat=11

[Paul Hostetter]

Cabelas in Canada carries it. It can't be shipped from the US to Canada, but it's available in Canada.

[Jim Baker]

The nearest Cabelas in Canada that I know of is in western Canada. I've seen tru oil advertised for gun stock touchups but only in small bottles. Not nearly enough for an instrument. I chequed two Walmarts today in the Niagara region and neither carried it in any form. I'm hoping that the Bass Pro store north of Toronto will have it. I'll pass by there tomorrow.

[Jim Baker]

Just checked Cabelas web site. They do list tru oil in a 3 oz. bottle for $7.99. Where can I buy the sealer?

[Steevarino]

I just ordered an 8 oz. bottle on eBay for close to that price. Just search "Tru-Oil" and you get quite a few options.

A question or two I have... how do you deal with staining or sunbursting, and using Tru-Oil? I have an order for a reso. guitar to be finished this way. I am wondering what type(s) of stain might be compatible with Tru-Oil? Also, since the wood type is quilted mahogany, should I grain fill? Does Tru-Oil cohabitate well with grain fillers?

Thanks!

[Paul Hostetter]

Just checked Cabelas web site. They do list tru oil in a 3 oz. bottle for $7.99. Where can I buy the sealer?

You don't need sealer. It is its own sealer. Follow the directions, they're pretty clear. If you had really open grain, you could use an oil-based paste filler I suppose, although it might mess with the drying of the Tru-Oil.

Never thought of combining Tru-Oil or any padded oil varnish with a sunburst. No experience there.

[big smiley guy]

If you use 0000 steel wool between coats it fills the pores nicely much like pumicing a french polish.

[Bob Laughlin]

i use tru-oil on all my instrument necks; guitar, bouzoukis, mandolins - about 6-8 coats - i spray gloss lacquer on the head only to match the rest of the lacquer finish on the instrument - i've never had a problem with tru-oil reacting with sweat like many lacquers do on necks - and it never seems to wear thru to raw wood even though it is a very very thin coating - it sheens up real good and makes for a more natural feel on a neck - a coat of tree wax over it makes for a fast slippery neck but is not really necessary

i have done a few instruments all in tru-oil, the last time because the client requested a flat finish - even after multi-coats i could never get it to build much - it also magnifies the tiniest imperfection, sanding scratch or post finishing dent - here's a mandolin with an all-tru-oil finish http://laughlinguitars.ca/M8/ - but as i said i prefer lacquer on the body for added protection and its glossy appeal

[Jim Baker]

Thanks Bob. So, you use tru oil on necks only. I read something recently where birtchwood casey doesn't recommend tru oil for spruce tops but does for everthing else. I'll have to see if I can find that again.
Your mandolin looks pretty awesome. Did you use any sort of sealer on the spruce under the tru oil?