Need Help With Hide Glue

[j. condino]

When I read back on the original post, the first thing I though was: cold brush. You can do all of that work to warm up the glue perfect but if you then dip a cold brush in the glue it gels very fast. Once everything looks good, I leave the brush in the pot for a few minutes to warm it up.

Since I also build double basses, I go through several pounds of hot hide glue per year. I've got it down well enough to glue the top on a bass in one single session with no help. 'Cafe folks are welcome to stop by for a visit anytime if you need a bit of help or inspiration.

Btw, I use 50 cent disposable brushes from Home Depot for glue and save the fancy ones for varnish work.

[pops1]

I simply use the offset disassembly knife from Stu Mac. It heats up in the water with the glue.

James, that is impressive to do a bass top/back in one pass. I do one area at a time. I don't do a lot so I don't have to worry about something fast. If I'm lucky maybe only once a year.

[DougC]

I only heat up what I'm going to use. It goes much faster...
It makes no sense to warm up a whole 'glue pot' in order to use a little 'dab' on the spot. But then I'm working on violins and not bass violins. And it's not a busy shop here. (Just me using any brush available, but usually an old 3 mm sable artist brush.)

[SBJ]

+1 for a wax warmer and the technique NAS describes. I also put in locator pins in the head block and tail block to quickly set the top in place.

[Schneidly]

Thank you all for sharing your insight and process. If an acid brush is good enough for John, then it should be just fine for me!
This thread has me wanting to learn more about the palette knife technique because I like the idea of being able to get the top or back all clamped into place, without the hide glue timer running. Then completing the glue up with it already held in the right position. It sounds common for violins, but does the glue sizing and palette knife technique yield a strong enough joint for mandolins?