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Made up some binding strips. Used maple & wenge. This will be a close match to the original binding once I put a finish on it. (just locally)
I had enough of the wenge sitting around the shop, so I used it.
Cleaned it up, using just water and a microfiber cloth, then followed up with a little plastx.
Cleanup of the repair area was more difficult due to old attempted repair. (a lot of excess adhesive)
Now just need to fine tune the fit of the binding strips
Last edited by Splinterd!; Jul-27-2022 at 6:20pm. Reason: Removed duplicate photo, and added new one
I decided to work just on the missing pieces of the binding strips, but I have a blank big enough to make binding strips for the whole top if I need to at a later time.
You are on the right track.
A difficulty that I foresee is that your strips may be difficult or impossible to bend and fit without breaking them.
If so, you can try to glue a thin border to the outside of a strip to temporarily hold it together, then shave it off after the strip is glued in place. I'd make a dry run with just one strip, and if that doesn't work, go to plan B.
Which is: Cut your strips extra wide and cut a radius into the inner edge to fit the shape of the channel. Shave off the excess after the strips are glued in place. You may get better results using several short strips rather than one long strip.
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It would be easier to replace the bridge saddle than to replace the bridge. See if your music store has or can order an AllParts bone saddle. If that takes an act of congress, pm me and I'll send you a piece of bone.
Good going. Much nicer than my slapdash method. I’m wondering if the ancients didn’t make curved cuts in the process to make fitting easier. That, and how leveling with the side and top was done on a production basis.
[QUOTE=rcc56;1873522]You are on the right track.
A difficulty that I foresee is that your strips may be difficult or impossible to bend and fit without breaking them.
If so, you can try to glue a thin border to the outside of a strip to temporarily hold it together, then shave it off after the strip is glued in place. I'd make a dry run with just one strip, and if that doesn't work, go to plan B.
Which is: Cut your strips extra wide and cut a radius into the inner edge to fit the shape of the channel. Shave off the excess after the strips are glued in place. You may get better results using several short strips rather than one long strip.
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Fortunately, after getting close to the final thickness, the strips have enough flexability to conform the curve.
If the repair was more towards the lower corners, I think you're right, I might have to pre-radius the pieces, (or steam them) to get them to conform
I thought the binding strips would be flexible enough after getting close to final thickness, but was unable to clamp it up without leaving a gap under one end.
I took rcc56's suggestion and sanded a shallow radius on the back (bonding) side of the binding strip. I used my oscillating sander with a zero clearance insert. to make quick work of the sanding.
If I had it to do over again I would have made the wood strips I used a little thinner. I made the strips 0.100" thick. When I made the 45 degree cut, that left the exposed dimension at the edge somewhat wider. Perhaps not that obvious to most, but one of those things that bug me.
At any rate, a little more sanding, and will be finished with the binding strip repair.
It is coming on really well- a "learn as you go" experience and I am looking forward to seeing the instrument returned to its original glory.
Added the new bridge and restrung, set the intonation (I think I got it pretty close).
Sounds pretty good.
I also took care of a few cracks on the side and back of the mando.
The frets and fretboard up near the nut could use a little work. (wood is worn a bit under the strings, and the frets in this area are a bit worn also)
But I think to do a decent job of that, I might have to remove all the frets, and sand the fretboard smooth.
Seeing a how it sounds good with no buzzing, etc... at this point I think I'll leave it alone.
..
Last edited by Splinterd!; Sep-02-2022 at 9:21pm. Reason: duplicated
If you can find fretwire that's reasonably close in size to the original, chances are good that you can replace the first few without re-working the fingerboard. On an instrument such as this, I will usually replace the first 7 frets and dress them down close to the height of the remaining frets. It doesn't hurt to leave the new frets a shade higher than the originals.
In most cases, divots in the board do not affect the way a fret will seat. If they are not very deep, I generally leave them alone. If they are very deep, one technique that is frequently used is to fill them with the appropriate color wood dust and CA or epoxy, then level and proceed in the normal manner.
Good info on fretwork can be found at www.frets.com. Select "items for luthiers" and you will find plenty of information.
If it were me, I would flush up the bridge shim to the edges of the bridge and maybe wipe a little stain on the visible surfaces.
Thanks for the link. Frets.com has some great info. I liked the fix for low areas on the fret-board using a razor blade, wood dust, and Super Glue. (I only wonder how durable the super glue/wood dust combination. Has anyone here tried that fix?
when setting the intonation, I had to move the bridge slightly on top of the pick guard. Flushing up the shim and the bridge would solve that problem. I'll put it on my to-do list.
Very durable.
I tried the razor blade technique a couple of times-- I decided against it because of the risk of carving up a finger badly, and thought the results were not worth the extra trouble. It's perhaps the only one of their techniques that I didn't care for.
Instead, I use the more standard technique of brushing the divot with a drop of alcohol, maybe scoring it with an X-acto knife, then filling it with glue and dust. You have to make yourself wait a little while before you work it down.
Last edited by rcc56; Sep-04-2022 at 1:17am.
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