Blueridge BR-60T Tenor Guitar?

[Ed Goist]

Does anyone own the upgraded BR-60T model of the Blueridge Tenor guitars?

It looks like the BR-60T has Santos Rosewood rims and back (instead of Mahogany), and multi-ply, full, white body binding (instead of Tortoise body binding with b/w lines).

I'm wondering if there is any tonal difference between the two models, or is the difference purely a matter of rim/back woods and appointments? Is the workmanship, fit and finish on the 60T better?

Has anyone played both models?

Any thoughts on whether the BR-60T is worth ~$70+ more than the BR-40T?

[RRTT]

When I bought my BR-60T, the dealer also had a 40T so I was able to play both of them multiple times. I went with the 60T because I liked its sound better - seemed to be a little sweeter to me. The dealer did say however that many people prefer the tone of the 40T. It's my understanding that the workmanship is the same on both models, with the only differences being what you pointed out above. I do enjoy playing the tenor a lot and am very happy with the Blueridge.

[bruce.b]

I went with the 40-T because I preferred how it looks. It's a really good guitar for the price.

[Ed Goist]

Here is a good look at the wood/binding differences between these two models (pics courtesy of elderly.com)

------ BR-40T -------------- BR-60T

[tashook]

Ed, I bought the 40T on a whim. Glad I did. It's got such a rich tone. Although I'm thinking about re-stringing it to GDAE so I don't have to use my brain - which doesn't work that well anyway.

[multidon]

Never played it Ed. I did do a double take when I saw "santos rosewood". never heard of it. Have you ever heard that term? A little research reveals that it's just another name for morado, or pau ferro, or ironwood. Not a true rosewood but still a great tonewood. My Mid-Mo mandola is made from it and I love the sound!

[bruce.b]

Both the mahogany and rosewood sides and back are a laminate so I'm not sure how much they impact the tone. A little? It was the white binding that I wasn't thrilled with so I went with the 40-T.

I really like the neck on mine and it came set up very nicely. I did widen the slots when I switched to GDAE. BTW it sounded great CGDA and I think it sounds slightly better in that tuning. It still sounds fine in GDAE and I'm very pleased with it.

[Ed Goist]

Thanks to everyone for all the great input!
I have decided to go with the BR-40T with hardshell case, and get a custom and advanced set-up done (in GDAE) on it.
When it came to my budget for this instrument, I thought it made more sense (for me) to get the BR-40T and an advanced set-up, than to get the BR-60T with standard set-up.
I'll report back once the instrument has arrived.
(BTW, Bruce; I know a very good and well respected guitar tech who told me exactly what you said: the sides and back woods of a guitar, whether solid or laminate, have very little impact on the overall tone.)

[multidon]

(BTW, Bruce; I know a very good and well respected guitar tech who told me exactly what you said: the sides and back woods of a guitar, whether solid or laminate, have very little impact on the overall tone.)

I heard a story once about a very well known maker of classical guitars who, to prove that very point, built a guitar with sides and back made of paper mache', but with a very fine cedar top. He then played the guitar for a small audience of friends, positioning himself so they could not see the back and sides. His friends went on and on about how it was the finest sounding guitar he had ever made! Don't know whether the story is true; just something I heard or read once. Interesting if true.

On the other side of the coin, I attended a Taylor "Road Show" once where the main topic for two hours was a demonstration/discussion not only on side and back materials but combinations with top materials as well. The Taylor reps had brought with them identical model guitars in spruce/mahogany, spruce/rosewood, cedar/mahogany, cedar/rosewood, and I think all walnut. Each was played and the tonal differences discussed with the audience at length. Most of the audience seemed to hear great differences, I thought the differences while apparent were often subtle. One big problem with their presentation is it was not scientific. Because it was not a blind test, the audience knew the wood combination in advance and most people probably had preconceived notions.

Where I come down on this (just my opinion based on my experiences, no science here!) is that 80 percent of the tone indeed comes from the top, while the back/sides contribute a subtle 20 percent. It is like the top provides the basic tone while the back/side is more of a nuance. I think your spruce/mahogany tenor will sound just fine. It is a tried and true combination.

[bruce.b]

http://www.danielbrauchli.com/index.html
Interesting what this maker has to say about string instrument design. The speaker box idea under theory and concepts.

[Mike Black]

One thing that I noticed is that the BR40T has the fret markers in the correct place and the BR60T & BR70T don't. That is the fret marker on the 10th fret instead of the 9th fret.

That is if you're one of us who play in 5ths.

[Ed Goist]

One thing that I noticed is that the BR40T has the fret markers in the correct place and the BR60T & BR70T don't. That is the fret marker on the 10th fret instead of the 9th fret.

That is if you're one of us who play in 5ths.

Bingo! Very observant.

...........BR-40T.....................BR-60T...........

[multidon]

Most guitars have fret markers on the 9th fret while most mandolins have it on the 10th instead. Strangely, except for that one, the rest usually seem to follow the same pattern regardless of instrument: 3 (sometimes), 5, 7, 12, 15, 17. Can anyone tell me why guitars get 9 and mandolins get 10? This being the case, seems like the model 40 would suit mandolin players better and the 60 and 70 guitar players. There are exceptions. My Mid Mos have markers on the 9th. Every time I switch to one of those I have to do a mental shift.