Good afternoon,
I have a line on a KM-630. He said he wouldn't go any lower than $300. What are your expert opinions on this mando and price? Thanks!
Joe
Good afternoon,
I have a line on a KM-630. He said he wouldn't go any lower than $300. What are your expert opinions on this mando and price? Thanks!
Joe
Solid pressed (not carved) top, solid back and sides (at least according to Elderly). Prices seem to run $550-700 for a new one, so $300's around what one might expect for a used one.
If you're not determined to get an F-model, Kentucky has all-solid-wood, carved-top A-models for less money. If you really want an F-model, $300's not a bad price.
If you're getting a decent case as well for your $300, that's another plus.
Allen Hopkins
Gibsn: '54 F5 3pt F2 A-N Custm K1 m'cello
Natl Triolian Dobro mando
Victoria b-back Merrill alumnm b-back
H-O mandolinetto
Stradolin Vega banjolin
Sobell'dola Washburn b-back'dola
Eastmn: 615'dola 805 m'cello
Flatiron 3K OM
As Allen noted, 300 for the F is going to be pretty close to the real value of the mandolin. If you buy a new, cheaper A, it will depreciate, maybe even more percentage-wise. There is no appreciable difference to a beginner between A and F style, and the price range you are talking about, there might be no difference at all. A huge chunk of the cost of an F resides in that scroll and in the two points. It is just like building a house, every corner, every cut, adds to the cost. Grab that F for 300 and unless it is obviously damaged or defective, you will get your money's worth out of it.
Gonna highjack my own post...anyone ever heard of a Woods F-Style mandolin? Never heard of it and not a lot online about them. Thanks!
Joe
No, but I would recommend a carved top over a heat-pressed top -- as a general rule. Not a major factor in learning the instrument, however. As vetus scotia points out, the scroll and points of the F-model, which are basically ornamental and don't improve its sound, do add to its price.
Probably you'd be pretty satisfied with the KM-630, if it's well set up. Carved tops have the potential to be more acoustically responsive than heat-pressed tops, but in the mid-price range, the differences probably wouldn't leap out at you.
And the Woods brand is a new one on me.
Allen Hopkins
Gibsn: '54 F5 3pt F2 A-N Custm K1 m'cello
Natl Triolian Dobro mando
Victoria b-back Merrill alumnm b-back
H-O mandolinetto
Stradolin Vega banjolin
Sobell'dola Washburn b-back'dola
Eastmn: 615'dola 805 m'cello
Flatiron 3K OM
Randy Wood??? Maybe add a few zeroes...
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...-from-the-80-s
- Ed
"Then one day we weren't as young as before
Our mistakes weren't quite so easy to undo
But by all those roads, my friend, we've travelled down
I'm a better man for just the knowin' of you."
- Ian Tyson
I had a KM-630 that I bought for around that price. It was worth it and a decent mandolin. Definite difference in tone between it and a carved top, however. When I bought a carved top F, I sold the 630 for the same price I paid for it. You probably can't go to wrong and playability is good. The best mandolin I have gotten rid of (with regret) was a KM 180 S. Solid, carved top A model that was excellent sounding and playing as well as only $200 + used. As always, best tonal bang for the buck will be with the A-model.
"...got time to breathe, got time for music" - Briscoe Darling
Barry Smith
Weber Road Dog, Gibson F5G
Atkin White-Rice
1965 Martin D18
1990 Martin HD28
Too many others
I am familiar with the Woods Instruments. I am a dealer for their parent company so by default I am also a Woods dealer. They are fine for what they are, but nothing to write home about. I do not sell them..anyone ever heard of a Woods F-Style mandolin? Never heard of it and not a lot online about them. Thanks!
For the KM-630....
$300 was an average price a few years back, but the way prices have been climbing, I would say that $300 is now a good deal. The newer versions are better mandolins than those with the full fingerboard extension. So $300 for one that looks like this and is in good playing condition would be something that I would jump on. Note the fingerboard extension, head-stock inlay and tuners. These will Identify it as the newer version.
$300 for an older version is still not a bad deal at all. Again, you just need to check things like the frets and neck.
Robert Fear
http://www.folkmusician.com
"Education is when you read the fine print; experience is what you get when you don't.
" - Pete Seeger
I picked mine up for 300..I like it play great.. good price..
AL
Well all, I went ahead and purchased the Kentucky KM-630 for $300. I feel pretty good about it. There are a couple small things on it that don't really "worry" me...but have me thinking a little bit..I'll submit some pics to gauge some opinions (thought, its too late to turn back now :P). Photos 3 and 4 are the spots I was talking about. Not sure why there is that tiny hole on photo 4...
Anyway, thanks for the advice
Joe
Hole is where a finger rest/pickguard was or could have been installed, Nice looking instrument. Hope you enjoy it.
Jim Richmond
Any thoughts/ideas on the spot above the neck that is missing the varnish or whatever (pic #3)? Thanks!
Joe
Can anyone help me with specs for the following instrument?
KM630S
serial # 0181616
Made in China
Are we still talking about a solid pressed top and solid B/S?
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