difficult/frustrating tasks in your first F build

[CeeCee_C]

All -

I've heard both of the following opinions expressed:

- start with an A. Building an F is way too tough for a first time kit builder.

- If you want an F, then don't build an A kit. You'll end up with an instrument you won't play. just take your time and think things through. There's no time limit.

So i thought I'd ask what were the toughest and/or most frustrating things about building an F; particularly for first time kit builders. (I'm leaning towards a Siminoff or perhaps an Arches kit.) Then perhaps I can practice those operations on scrap.

For example, I know routing for the scroll binding can be a challenge. So I'd practice that until I got it right.

The answer is probably dependent on pre-existing skill level. If it helps you to assess my question in context, here's my background.

I spent 10 years scratch building controline stunt planes. Small pieces, precision work. lots of carving. Selection of the proper wood for each component. Unfortunately that was a loooooong time ago.

But I currently have a hobby machine shop and can make parts to relatively strict tolerances using lathe, vertical mill, and hand tools.

Some I'm not without manual skills, it's just that the wood-related skills need to be brought up to speed.

BTW, neither of my parents ever told me that my interests were inappropriate for a girl. In retrospect, I should have thanked them. Nobody ever tried to take away my tinkertoys and give me a Barbie doll.

[Grommet]

Guess you wouldn't need that 16" Griz for this project. I thought the Arches kit looked great when the pics appeared last year. If I were to go kit I would consider A or F styles. Were I to attempt a scratch build or the wood kit from LMI I would surely start with an A. Controline Stunt? That's some old school woodworking there. Very Trad bound. Gotta love a gal that gets dizzy on alcohol, castor and nitro.

Scott

[Jim Rowland]

Hi,Cee Cee:

You've got the good instincts,and,demonstrated by your experience in model building,the patience to get into this and succeed.
I highly recommend Don MacCrostie's CD package sold by StewMac. It will show you clearly and precisely how to go forward on
the SM mando kit and scratch builds. He shows you how to do it with a couple of exotic tools of his own design and how to do it
with ordinary tools,too. I'm guessing that much of the kit information can be applied to the kits you mention. Finishing to your own satisfaction will likely be your greatest challenge,closely followed by getting the neck angle right. Do what Mr. Don tells you,and
you'll be good.

Jim

[CeeCee_C]

Thanks, Scott -

We used to carve out soft balsa top and bottom fuselage blocks. The approach taken was to leave regularly spaced ribs and then evenly remove most of the material, leaving about 1/32" to 1/16" of wood as the shell. So ideally, you'd hold the block up to the light, see dark bands where the ribs were, and a uniform, light shade of brown everywhere else. Variations in color meant varying thickness. It took considerable concentration and skill. And when you did it right? I can't describe the feeling, but you probably know what I mean.

I went to the local R/C field recently and was disappointed to see that NONE of the flyers had built their own models. They were all pre-fab, plug-and-play. Back in the day, we took pride in our workmanship.

My brother and I were treated exactly the same. So I grew up crawling around garage floors working on old British cars (cuz they were so reliable. NOT).

I've been racing vintage motorcycles, but I'm re-thinking this as crashing frequently results in damaged fingers. Far less acceptable an injury in musical pursuits.

[calden]

I haven't built an F, so I can't comment on specific frustrating or difficult tasks, but from having built several A models and other instruments, it seems that it's just more little things to do.

You already have the building skills you really need: to think things out, measure twice cut once, go patiently, and try fittings and such on scrap items first. As pointed out, there is a great DVD and lots of advice. I say go for the F if that's what you want.

Carlos

[Marty Jacobson]

You've got to build your first F at some point. If you build an A style first, the first F will likely sound better. My first instrument was an F style, and it wasn't great. But the motivation to have an F style when I couldn't afford one was enough fuel to keep me going, and that's got to be worth something.

It would have been a lot easier if I'd had Andrew Mowry's lengthy step-by-step instructions on binding an F style mandolin published in the most recent issue of American Lutherie.

[billhay4]

If you're bound to have an F, build one first. But it will be much more challenging. Personally, I find scrolls useless.
BTW, there are other designs out there: two-points of all descriptions, guitar-shaped mandos, Kays, Lyon and Healy's, etc.
Bill

[Rob Grant]

Scrolls are a challenge, but when you get it right the beauty and satisfaction is well worth the journey.

I've always built from "scratch" because I prefer to create scrolls and points which don't necessarily coincide with the factory standard Gibson variety.<g>